STORY BY

Wendy Cederberg

Your next sinful bite of chocolate can be guilt-free – at least where acne is concerned.

That sweet delicacy is no longer blamed as the culprit responsible for acne or unsightly pimples.

And there’s more good news: acne can be successfully treated with new dermatological products and technology. Patients of all ages do not need to suffer from embarrassment, or worse, acne scarring.

Treatment choices have come a long way since the Middle Ages when acne sufferers sought skin improvements by standing under a full moon.

Dr. Adelaide A. Hebert, professor of dermatology at the University of Texas Medical School at Houston, dispels some myths about skin care and explains new treatment options that are highly effective for acne. A specialist in skin care, she describes herself as “a pediatric dermatologist for patients who are young and who want to look young.”

Facts or Fiction

While there are many popular misconceptions about this skin condition, acne still refers to plugged pores and pimples that appear on the face, neck, chest, back and shoulders.

• Acne is not just for teenagers.
  Some degree of acne can be found in adults, particularly when hormonal shifts hit those over age 50.
• Acne is not due to poor hygiene.
  Although a widespread belief, dirt is not a contributor to acne. If you scrub your face hard, especially with a washcloth, you may actually cause your skin to become worse. Twice a day, use your hands to gently wash your face with mild soap and then lightly pat your skin dry.
• Acne is not caused by chocolate.
  Now that’s research we can use! Studies show there is no relationship between acne and diet, so don’t blame chocolate and French fries. Just remember that a healthy balanced diet is better for your overall health.
• Acne does not come from stress.
  Relax. Stress is not a contributor to acne, although stress does have other harmful effects on our bodies.
• Sunshine (also known as “a good tan”) is not good for acne.
  Put on your sun hat or cap. Sun exposure can be an irritant that makes acne worse. A suntan may look good, but it can cause skin damage.
• Acne may go away on its own—eventually.
  In some cases, acne will eventually go away but why needlessly suffer the negative effects on your self-esteem?
• Picking at a pimple will not make it better.
  Never squeeze, poke, pick or prick any pimple on your face because this can worsen the condition by spreading bacteria and worsening inflammation. Needless scarring can occur.
• Certain jobs may negatively affect your skin (“McDonald’s acne”).
  Occupational acne does have some truth to it. Working in a fast food restaurant, for example, may worsen acne because of the grease in the air, not in the food. Don’t be surprised if your doctor asks you where you work.

Antibiotics take a back seat

Just 15 years ago, treatment options for acne were limited and mostly focused on the antibiotic tetracycline. Although acne is not an infection, it often is still treated with antibiotics to reduce inflammation and control scarring.

“Prescription medicines are more effective in treating acne than over-the-counter drugs,” explains Hebert. Ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide, which is contained in both prescription and over-the-counter drugs, work better in a prescription medicine because they penetrate deeper and reduce bacteria.

Options include:

• Injections - It may seem like magic, but you can have a pimple disappear within hours. “If you get a large pimple, we can inject the lesion with cortisone at 8 a.m.,” says Hebert, “and the pimple will be much less visible later that afternoon.”
• Chemical Peel - Stubborn acne cases can be treated successfully with a chemical peel once a month to unblock the pores.
• Lasers - Superficial lasers may be used to treat scarring.

Rosacea

Rosacea, sometimes called adult acne, is a common but often undiagnosed disorder that has a flushed acne-like appearance. Unfortunately, many people don’t know they have it.

While the cause is unknown and there is no cure, current medical options can control the symptoms. A combination of new treatments can be tailored to each patient: gels, creams, oral antibiotics, lasers and intense pulsed light.

Consumers: Beware

Hebert cautions about infomercials and mail order products. “Some of these products are very expensive for what you receive,” she explains, “and they may contain a lower dose of effective ingredients. Patients are better served with prescription medicines.”

Facials and spa treatments often don’t help. While a facial will clean pores, the clinician may use un-sterile instruments that can lead to infections.

“We do not recommend tanning salons because the ultraviolet light can damage skin,” she says. “The tanning industry is unregulated and there is little question skin damage will occur. There are places that offer a ‘spray on’ tan that is not harmful.”

Hebert recommends that an individual with acne symptoms should see a dermatologist. Depending on skin type, the dermatologist will recommend the appropriate treatment that may include topical cream, lotion or gel, in addition to an oral medicine or another new option.

UPDATED: 7-14-2003

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